It is great to be traveling internationally again!

I am excited to be with an amazing group of educators representing the U.S. as part of the Fulbright Teachers for Global Classrooms Program (Fulbright TGC). Furthermore, it is wonderful to be abroad again and I am thankful Fulbright and IREX pushed for this trip to take place. The slight annoyance of Covid precautions are worth every minute we are able to spend in this country working together to improve our practice, exchange ideas with our hosts, and discuss education in the United States and Europe as a whole. During the next several days I will be posting updates from our travel agenda which includes meetings with German educational officials, visits to international organizations, and spending time in German classrooms working with German teachers and students. The majority of our time will be in the former capitol of West Germany, Bonn, before we travel to Berlin, the current capitol of Germany, towards the end of the trip. Some of this information is geared towards other educators, but I'll also post information I find interesting and amusing. 

To begin, a note on entering the EU nowadays: Every time I’ve traveled to Europe I’ve had to complete the paper immigration forms while on the plane. Finding a pen and waking up enough to scrawl the location where I'd stay was memorably stressful. Alas, this is no longer a thing! Instead all we had to do was pass through an expeditious immigration process where my pronunciation of Bonn was corrected from the uncultured “Bon” to the more cosmopolitan pronunciation of “Bonnnn.” Interestingly a couple of British kids asked why they couldn't go through the fast pass lane anymore and were instead in the line with all the Americans. Their father responded, “because people in the United Kingdom vote for stupid things.” This is a small, yet illustrative, example that elections do have consequences, even if they mean a longer cue.

Bonn is situated along the Rhine, South of Cologne. It is famous for being the birthplace of Beethoven and home to the famous Haribo gummy bears. Bonn is located in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. Many governmental and international organizations have their headquarters or major offices in Bonn. Some notable organizations with offices here are the United Nations, T-Mobile, DHL, and the DAAD (German Academic Exchange Service).

More from Bonn on Day 1: Mostly a blur while fighting jetlag. We did take a hot and sunny double decker bus ride through town. Honestly, however, I missed most of the sights and instead found the bus a lovely place for a nap. 

First dinner in Bonn: Hot, with lots of pork options, and entertaining saltiness from our waiter.

Today we spent most of the day learning about the German system of education, which is quite different from the U.S. system. 

But first, a note on public transit: This summer Germany sponsored a 9 euro public transit pass. Yes! This means you can take any form of public transit for 3 months for the low sum of 9 euro. Pretty cool idea. I asked our guide/fixer, Nic, about the reasoning for this low cost pass. I assumed it was to get the people back on transit post Covid, however, I neglected to think about the energy crisis in Europe. This is especially necessary as Mr. Putin threatens to shut off the gas exports to the EU. Interestingly, there is no need to tap your pass to enter. Transit is on the honor system and there is only a very large fine if you are caught without the pass. One colleague asked "can you imagine this working in the U.S.?" (Update, as of mid-July, the 9 euro ticket has measurably reduced traffic in German cities).

Today we visited the German Academic Exchange service (DAAD). This is one of the governing bodies related to education in Germany. As Bonn is the former capital of Germany, many of the government organizations still call Bonn home. Today we met with DAAD officials, who summarized its mission as "promoting world peace" but they know that mission would be taken as too superficial, so they had to write a much longer one. Tabea Kaiser, the Head of Section, gave us a nice rundown of the organization and how they allocate their 500 million euros in funding each year.

Dr. Jan Spingbob then gave us an in depth look at the German Education system. He has a unique perspective as he went to high school in Oklahoma for a year. Overall we found him to be very knowledgeable and one cool dude. 

Some brief(ish) notes: 

Surprisingly, Germany is in the bottom third in the OECD in regards to money spent on education. When the PISA study came out they were also surprised to find they did not rank as highly as they thought.

The German education system is not a national system. Instead it is governed separately by each of the 16 German states. These systems all have slightly different rules so education may look different depending on where a student lives. This can make it difficult for students to move across the country without interruptions to their education. There are 33,500 schools in Germany.

Kindergarten (invented here, much like the biergarten!) is not free. It can be expensive (around 300 euro/month I'm told), but all school after, including college tuition is provided by the state. Formal school starts at year 6 and primary school is the first 4 years of formal education. High school ranges from grades 5-10 and is dependent on the type of recommendation a student gets from their primary school teacher. Students can enter a gymnasium (highest level and aimed towards university and completion of A-level exams) or a range of other schools including comprehensive (more individualized), vocational (geared towards a specific career), or a general school (which allows students more latitude before they make a career or college choice). Students who choose the Gymnasium route are in school through grade 13. Private schools are rare and expensive and there is no home schooling in Germany - it is illegal. Religion is taught as part of the curriculum, and theoretically, all religions should be included; however, at most schools only Protestant and Catholic instruction exists.

One questionable aspect of the German educational system is that separate schools for students with disabilities exist. At one point several years ago there was a push for more inclusive practices, which did take place to some extent, but this seems to have fizzled out, according to Dr. Jan. He is in favor of the American style of inclusive practices and is pushing for more students with special needs to be integrated into the two route high school system (university or vocation) that exists in Germany.

I was also curious to hear about teacher training and life as a teacher post-pandemic in Germany. Dr. Jan explained that the role of a teacher has respect in Germany and fairly good pay and benefits. Teachers do need a masters degree to teach and have 1.5 years of paid training as part of their education. Still, there is a teacher shortage and they need to get creative in how to attract new teachers to the profession.

Finally, Dr. Jan outlined some of the challenges that exist in Germany. For one, as discussed above, equity and inclusion are major topics in Germany right now. Planned integration of outdated styles and systems of education (exclusive practices) into the track that exists for the majority of students in Germany still needs to take place. Similarly to America, teachers are dealing with a lot in their classrooms right now. They are facing some of the same challenges related to poverty, self-management, and emotional needs that I see in students in Chicago.

Thank you Dr. Jan for your insight!

More from Day 2: A trip to Drachenburg Castle and the Drachenfels Ruin (a steep hike up!) and old-school funicular down. Then dinner on the Rhine. Smoked salmon, potato pancakes, and mustard (a very German dish I was told).

Cologne is a busy city. I was here back in 2006 and spent a night touring the city, before sleeping in the train station because I didn't plan ahead. Luckily we had our main man Nic to help arrange the schedule. 

A note on Cologne: It turns out that Cologne has become the destination in the region for bachelor and bachelorette parties. It is a bit strange to watch a crew of less than sober wedding participants take photos in front of a famous cathedral and then walk down the street to get even more sloshed. We lost count of the number of stag and hen parties walking down the main drag. Nevertheless, it seems they all had fun. The 96 degree heat, was also reminiscent of America's "Music City."

This time around we embarked on walking tours. Honestly, it was hard to follow the history because it was so hot. But I did learn a few things. For one, the cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It took 632 years to build and was only finished in the late 1800s. It was bombed in WW2, but remarkably only one of the windows was lost. A distinctly modern window now rests in the place of the traditional stained glass. The church is in the process of updating the cathedral by replacing old and damaged stones piece by piece, which is amazing.

I did have the chance to relive my glory days by climbing back up to the top (533 steps!) with two colleagues. This time was much more pleasant as it was daylight and not raining. I remember the top of the climb being quite terrifying then, but exhilarating now. What a view!

We also had a tremendous dinner in Cologne with the world's greatest barkeep at Sunner im Walfisch. Kolsch beer along with lake perch, asparagus and potatoes. Quite a fun, and delightful meal.

A slow Sunday roll down the Rhine today, South from Koblenz and back, on the MS Abach. Plenty of green mountains, vineyards, and medieval castles along the way. It was a very relaxing way to wait out the heatwave and converse with colleagues. The Rhine is beautiful.

More from the Rhine: a nice little feta salad for lunch.

This morning we took public transportation to Berufskolleg Bonn-Dusisdorf, a vocational school that offers economics and agricultural programs. Upon our arrival we had coffee with students and staff to get to know one another. The headmaster explained that the school promotes tolerance, unity, and peaceful democracy. Although the school is vocational in nature, there are still students on the A-level track that will take their exams and go to university. The majority of the 1800 students however, are going to go into the workforce upon graduation.

The vocational system in Germany is inspiring. I find that most vocational programs in the U.S. are limited and perhaps offer a brief internship where a student learns on the job only. At Berufskolleg Bonn-Dusisdorf students are taught business management or agricultural skills in the classroom and they apply these during their internships. The older students come to school 1-2 days per week and are paid by companies to work the remainder of the week. For example, a student in the gardening class spoke of learning the math behind the number of trees to plant to repopulate a forest after logging. He then explained how he used this knowledge on the job while planting fruit trees for a corporation.

The really impressive aspect of this education is the coordination between the school, commercial entity, and the government. The student or "trainee" is at the center of the equation, and the Ministry of Education, Chamber of Agriculture, school, teacher, and place of employment all work together to ensure the trainee learns the skills necessary to enter the workforce ready to contribute on day 1. In other words, "there is intense cooperation between training partners" as one instructor stated. To illustrate, a farm which is accredited by the government to provide instruction, will communicate what it needs students to understand before they arrive. The teacher will ensure this instruction takes place and will follow up with the farm after the student begins their work. The teacher will talk to the employer in order to garner feedback about practices that should be implemented in the classroom. This is shared with the other entities in the system so that all students gain the knowledge necessary. This process is the same for all vocations taught in the country. As one teacher summarized, "the student works in real situations, is able to fulfill the working requirements, meaning they are useful, and remains open to further education at some point in the future."

Another interesting aspect of the vocational system is that it is not as set in stone as I assumed. As mentioned above, the students do have the opportunity to gain further education if they desire. It is estimated that about 2/3 of students will seek further education at some point in the future. The majority of this may be in the vocational setting, however, some students do decide to go back and complete the A-level requirements. We met one student, Noah, a 20 year old who jokingly called himself the "old man" of the group because he was three years older than the other students. He spoke of being an undetermined and unfocused younger student that only came to understand the value of education and pursuing college after his chance for the A-levels passed. Although he enjoyed the vocational education, he decided to go back and re-take his qualifications to sit for exams which he will do next year. He was thankful that Berufskolleg Bonn-Dusisdorf had both programs and a supportive group of teachers that were flexible in allowing him to change course. Although this was difficult for him, it was not impossible. Noah is a great example of positive persistence.

Overall, I was wildly impressed with Berufskolleg Bonn-Dusisdorf and the vocational system in general in Bonn and North Rhine-Westphalia. Support of the students by the teachers and of the teachers by the administration clearly exists. One aspect to consider about vocational education is that students with parents who experienced a vocational education are more likely to attend a vocational school themselves. In other words, students whose parents did not attend university are also less likely to attend university. This may be an area for educational ministries to examine. Still, I sensed a definite air of positivity, purpose, and possibility in our visit today.

On the topic of possibility, another relationship the school has is with Erasmus+. With the help of this state-funded program, students are able to travel to different European countries to study and work. Students at Berufskolleg Bonn-Dusisdorf traveled to Italy and Spain this year where they spent one week with their teachers, and then two weeks working on their own. The students spoke of the independence and job training they learned and appreciated the opportunity to experience life in other countries. This is an important program as it promotes the European identity. This is important in Germany and there has been an increased focus on this identity post-Brexit and in the face of Mr. Putin's invasion in Ukraine. Stefan Schaaf, the Deputy Director of the National Agency for Erasmus+ School Education also spoke on the importance of purposefully selecting students. He said they look for students who would not be able to travel to other countries without the program. This is a notable difference from programs in the U.S., which are often for-profit and are not able to prioritize students with limited means or a challenging immigration status. Overall, today offered a great look into Germany's high functioning vocational education system. The United States should consider Germany's model as a way to supercharge student interest and attainment of career-related skills and knowledge.

A note on Ukraine: Germany has a lot of support for the people of Ukraine. Schools such as Berufskolleg Bonn-Dusisdorf, and Clara Schuman Gymnasium (which I would come to know well in a few days) opened their doors to students from Ukraine. The teachers expressed their sentiment that they had a responsibility to offer an education to refugee students, whether they are from Ukraine or other countries. All refugees are able to secure German language instruction for at least two years if they are of school age. All around Bonn we saw signs of support for Ukraine: flags, murals, and signs all show that Germans stand against oppression and for democracy. 

The three days my group and I spent at Clara Schuman Gymnasium (C.S.G) were amazing. This was the highlight of the trip and gave me a real understanding of how teachers deliver education at the higher levels of the German school system. As discussed above, the gymnasium offers instruction to students who are looking to attend university. The curriculum is geared for students to pass their A-level exams at the end of their high school career. 

Upon arriving at C.S.G. we were met across the street by our host teachers Steffi, Bina, Petra, and Jonas. We were not allowed to enter the school right away because it was the 13th graders' "prank day." This is a day the eldest students enact all types of shenanigans upon the school. As we were guests, the students gave us a sneak peek of their "operation." Evidently the students came into the school the night before to create blockades in the hallways, paper the courtyard, and decorate the school. As we walked through the school, students hung out of windows, blasted music, and made jokes at the teachers' expense. Students of all ages roamed the hallways with big smiles on their faces as they threw reams of paper into the central courtyard. Later in the morning the students had teachers take part in skits where they made them do all sorts of silly things, including taking part in a mock-dating show where one teacher may have had to dance like Magic Mike (certainly a cultural difference there). Although this was not the C.S.G. teachers' favorite day, they took it in stride, played along with the jokes, and understood this was a right of passage for the students. Interestingly, it is the job of the 12th grade to clean up the school, which they did within 30 minutes of the event ending. Talk about German planning and efficiency (not to mention teacher-student trust)!

While most of this was going on we had coffee around the corner with some of the teachers and learned more about C.S.G. The school is in an upper-class neighborhood and most students come from families with university educated parents. The students have means and the ability to partake in clubs, sports, and exchange programs. The student body is fairly well-rounded in interests, although there was not much diversity amongst the population in general. The school did, however, open a class for Ukrainian students, and expects to have another 20 or so Ukrainian students in the fall.

Visiting classrooms was definitely fascinating. To begin, the classrooms are rather small and all seemed to have about 30 students in them. The students sat in rows and faced the teacher. They stood and greeted their teacher at the start of class, and were fairly disciplined. Students avoided their cell phones even though it was the last week of school. There was little to no technology present in general. This was incredibly interesting. We are at the point in the U.S. where the majority of students have access to some sort of device. My own school will finally be one-to-one this coming fall. I learned that C.S.G. had 160 iPads total for its 1000 students. Sure, some students did have their own computers, but I was surprised by the absence of tech. Teachers spoke of the value of discussion, oral examinations, and writing. They would like more technology and know it is important for students to utilize, but for now they are seeing strong results from their focus on reading comprehension, discussion of text, and written expression.

One great class we sat in on was Petra's international class. This was a team-taught class of German learners from countries around the world including Bulgaria, Ecuador, Ukraine, and one student from the U.S. All of the learners were at different levels of German and the two teachers grouped the students by ability as best they could before giving students the attention they needed. They encouraged students to work together and some of the more experienced students served as tutors for those from the same country. For example, one 9th grader from Ukraine helped two 5th grade Ukrainians in the room. The most recent addition to the class came from Ukraine a few weeks ago with her mother and sister. Her father and brother are back in their home country fighting. This gave us some perspective and appreciation that we have not had to struggle all that much in our lives.

Although the German curriculum is prescribed by each German state, the teachers did feel they had flexibility on how they can deliver education. The teachers had great relationships with their students and had excellent social-emotional knowledge. Each teacher spoke positively of their students and highlighted interesting things about the students. For example, "this student speaks Bulgarian at home, that is so cool!" or "she is a really great dancer." They would note this information in front of the student and it seemed to be a regular thing. I'm sure it built the confidence of students knowing their teachers cared so much for them. I did not hear any of the nine teachers we interacted with speak negatively about a student in the three days we were at the school. This was a stark and major difference with teachers in America, many of whom focus on what students cannot do. Although classes seemed teacher-centered, they were still student-focused. This was an interesting dynamic for sure.

Students were also given the opportunity to ask us questions in some of the classes. Most of the students were interested to know about the general school schedule in America, the time they would have to be in school, and the prevalence of sports and clubs at American schools themselves. The school day at C.S.G starts at 8am and ends at 1:15pm. Some students stay for after hours activities, but many go to their sports club for practices. Sports are not housed at schools. 

A note on doors: During the Q&A sessions, students had questions about American culture and politics. There were many references to the recent and horrific school shooting in Uvalde, Texas. This was on the mind of the German teachers as well and something they brought up during our first coffee together. In the teachers and students' opinion, the guns are the problem. They laughed at the notion that more locked doors were necessary. To illustrate: the main entrance to C.S.G is wide open all day. Anyone can come and go as they please. Teachers do not have key-fobs or have to think about active-shooter situations because it is difficult to obtain a gun in Germany. It was nice to be in an environment that felt carefree in this regard. The doors are not the issue.

A note on work-life balance: Our host teachers did not seem stressed. My school year ended a week and a half ago, and let me tell you, I was stressed out. I felt like I had a million things to do to close out the year. School ends this week for schools in Bonn and the teachers seemed so relaxed. I asked about this. The shorter school day does have a lot to do with the stress level of teachers. Those that had taught in other countries, including in the U.S., spoke of experiencing work related stress. The nice thing about North-Rhine Westphalia, is that teachers can leave during the day to run errands and have time to get home at the end of the day before the rush hour. This frees them up to sit in a coffee shop and grade with colleagues, or plan on their own time. German life seems more livable. Teachers and students bike to work, are outside during the school day, and have an viewpoint that one's health is important. Their attitude was also very tolerant of others which seems like a better way to live life. Life in Bonn is much different from the Protestant work ethic in the United States. I am going to miss this place for sure.

The great thing about this visit was the opportunity to work with talented educators. Our host teachers were absolutely amazing and went out of their way to make us feel welcome. They answered whatever questions we had, allowed us opportunities to interact with students, and made sure we were learning. Further, I saw each of them teach and have great respect for them because they are amazing educators. Having colleagues from the U.S. with me was also instrumental in my learning process. Each day we had lunch together and discussed what we saw, heard, and experienced. These reflections were an excellent way to compare our own understandings and contexts. I really valued the time with the German and American teachers.

Some other fun things we did with our German colleagues: 

-An evening spent in the school's auditorium watching 5th and 6th graders perform a play about cheese. Who doesn't love cheese?

- A night at Alter Zoll, a popular and fun biergarten with a great view of the Rhine. A wonderful conversation, lots of jokes, and some tasty suds. 

-Neighborhood walks around the school discussing all aspects of life. 

-A field trip day spent in the government section of Bonn and a visit to Haus de Geschichte. This museum represents German life from 1945 to the present. It is one of the best museums I've ever visited. It was educational, contained visually appealing exhibits, and did an excellent job of representing German life coming out the ruins of Nazi Germany, through the Cold War, to the reunification of Germany and present day life.

Weather prohibited our trip to Dusseldorf, but Steffi said there was no need to go there anyways ("Bonn is better"). Instead we participated in a virtual conference with members of the Education Ministry of North Rhine-Westphalia. This is the governing body of education in Bonn and other cities within the state. The focus of the talk was on protecting students against violence and supporting students from Ukraine.

The ministry notes three areas where they are working to protect students: escalating media violence, violence against teachers and students, and sexual abuse. The ministry has enacted action plans on each of these issues and provides materials to teachers and schools. The ministry spoke at length on media violence and explained that teachers have a duty to report certain media activities to the police. For instance, if a student posts any pro-Nazi messages on a message board or social media, a teacher has to report this activity because it is illegal and forbidden in German society. 

In regards to Ukrainian refugees, the ministry had four main goals: 1. Get schools organized to accept Ukrainian students on the first day they arrived; 2. Provide a framework for German language instruction; 3. Build a system for recognition of past school credit in Ukraine towards graduation in Germany; and 4. Ensure students are supported in dealing with the trauma they experience. The ministry explained they have social workers and psychologists available to help students, but there is a large demand on local school resources, of course.

A note on the separation of church and state: In Germany there is not a barrier between the church and state as there is in the U.S. Constitution. Citizens are free to practice their religion of choice, but there is a relationship between the government and religious groups. We saw this firsthand as we attended a church service with teachers and students on our 2nd day at C.S.G. The service took place during school hours and its intent was to offer a blessing for students as they progress to the next grade level. It was clear the pastor of the church knew the students, and students did offer prayers, hope for peace in Europe, and positive thoughts to their classmates. The service ended with all students saying a prayer aloud together before they walked back to school. While the U.S. has separation of church and state (in theory), it was odd to be at a church service during the school day. Of course, this absence of a separation also necessitates those who do not practice Christianity to sit there which raises questions about this part of the educational system.

A note on access to abortion: The US Supreme court overturned Roe v. Wade today (6/24), a precedent for the last 50 years of American life. This same day, ironically, Germany expanded access to abortion by removing an outdated law on the books that prohibited advertising abortion services. Abortion is legal until the 12th week of pregnancy in Germany.

Overall thoughts on Bonn: I love Bonn. Many people we encountered outside of Bonn seemed to claim the city was boring or sleepy. It seems like the city is an easy target in comparison to Cologne. In actuality, the city is beautiful, has amazing sunsets, and plenty to do. It is easy to go out on a hike, or spend time with friends socially in parks, restaurants, or biergartens. More than that, the city has an ease about it. As I mentioned above, people here seem to enjoy their lives. Many commute via bike, getting regular exercise, and seem to have made their health a priority, which came up in many conversations I had with residents. This is a very livable city and I will miss our hosts and sitting on the banks of the Rhine watching the cargo ships pass by. I leave Bonn with a joyful feeling and hope to return someday.

I am currently typing this entry on the DB ICE train that travels in excess of 199 km/h. The high speed rail in Europe leaves a lot to be desired in the U.S. Interestingly, Nic explained the Germans are quite upset with the rail service lately as trains are increasingly late and the investment in the system is not what it once was. The Germans are hopeful the "on-time" reputation of their trains will return in short order.

More from Berlin: Dinner consisting of beer and sausage at a Bavarian restaurant around the corner from our hotel, followed by a nighttime monuments tour. A history and geography teacher in our group led the tour, and seeing the monuments at night was intriguing. I traveled to these sights 15 years ago, but saw them in daylight. Seeing the Empty Library (Bibliothek), Checkpoint Charlie, the former Nazi Lufftwaffe building, the location of Hitler's former bunker, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, the Reischstag, and Brandenburg Gate was both beautiful and eerie at times. Walking through the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe was especially thought provoking as the memorial does not have an intent to elicit a particular emotion. The purpose is for people to walk through the maze of blocks and create their own meaning. At nighttime I found myself in the depths of the maze thinking about my own insignificance in relation to the world which was freeing in a way. Of course, I also thought about the sheer magnitude of the Holocaust, which is almost unfathomable. Others in the group spoke of the blocks of all sizes representing the differences in people. Regardless of meaning, it did cause me to reflect in a way that could not have occurred in the light of day. (For an interesting counterpoint on the memorial, read this).

Berlin is the most populous city in Germany and became the capital after German reunification in 1990. After WW2 Berlin was divided into 4 regions with each of the allies claiming sections. The American sector was in the southwest, while the Soviet sector was the entire eastern half of the city. Of course, Berlin itself was in the Soviet sector of the country, so the American, British, and French sectors of Berlin were surrounded by Soviet occupied territory. This would prove problematic after the U.S./Soviet relationship soured after the war. 

On the whole, Berlin has changed a lot in the 15 years since I last visited. When I was here in college I could really sense the differences between the former East and West. The architecture was a major clue then as the eastern sections of the city contained many Soviet "block" style buildings. In fact, I was here just as the former East German parliament building (the Palace of the Republic) was being demolished. This building was located on Museum Island and has since been replaced by a historic looking museum that fits in better with the older baroque buildings on the island. I also remember riding the subway from West to East and arriving at a subway station in the East and saying to myself "wow, this hasn't changed in 30 years." Some of this sentiment still exists, but less so. Alexanderplatz, the centerpiece of East German life, is remarkably different with all sorts of Western style restaurants, stores, and tourist attractions. The distinctly Soviet World Clock still exists, thankfully.

I spent most of the day with two colleagues seeing the city via bike. This was a fantastic way to get around, especially because it was unseasonably hot. We traveled from East to West, meandering through several neighborhoods and examining some of the main attractions in the city (Alexanderplatz, Museum Island, remaining sections of the Berlin Wall, the Brandenburg Gate etc.). However, my favorite part of the day was seeing the young, very stylish residents and families of Berlin walk to neighborhood cafes for Sunday brunch. Being in the neighborhoods and getting a sense of how people spend their weekends was a very cool experience.

In the afternoon I went over to the Sunday flea market in Mauerpark, which is a park situated in the former Death Strip between East and West Germany. The market had lots of knickknacks, art, and clothing but the park itself was full of young (many eccentric) people drinking beer, hanging out, and cheering for the people partaking in the famous karaoke show. It is amazing such a collective attitude exists in a place with a particularly ugly history.

Another note on public transit: The public transportation in Berlin is, bar none, the best I have ever experienced. I have taken trams, busses, and subway trains all across this city and the longest I've had to wait is six minutes. Most of the time the trains arrive within two minutes of being on the platform. The Germans are serious about their transit and it makes getting around this wonderful city so easy. Pete Buttigieg needs to get over here for a scouting mission ASAP.

More from Berlin: Dinner at Amrit, a delicious, upscale Indian restaurant near Potsdamer Platz. Some of the best food of the trip for sure.

This afternoon we met up with Muhammed Lamin Jadama a journalist born in Gambia. He emigrated from Gambia after being arrested for documenting government actions in his home country. He spent three months in jail before being bailed out by his mother. He left the country the same day for fear of further retribution. Muhammed found his way to Europe, spending time in Italy before immigrating to Germany. He has lived in Berlin since 2011 and gave our group insight into his life, his neighborhood, and the challenges many immigrants face. 

Muhammed lives in Kreuzberg, a neighborhood in Berlin that was under American control during the Cold War. Once the war was over, rents in the neighborhood were regulated and it did not receive the same investment other parts of Berlin saw. It is beginning to gentrify now, and is known as one of the hipper areas in Berlin. The neighborhood is home to many immigrants, especially those from Turkey and countries in Africa. As is the case with many gentrifying areas, those who have lived there are beginning to be priced out. Knowing this, Muhammed's mission is to help recent immigrants to Germany create a life and navigate an extremely complex immigration system. He explained that recent immigrants are not able to work for an extended period of time when they arrive. Therefore, services exist and are needed to help those without status find places to live, provide healthcare, and distribute food. Realistically, Muhammed explained, there is an underground network of employment where recent immigrants can work off the books. This is problematic and can lead to abuse and unfair conditions. If an immigrant is caught working, they are immediately deported, so there is this to consider as well. Once a new immigrant has necessary documentation, which can take months to secure, they are able to work in an official manner. Those that do not receive the proper paperwork often end up in the drug trade because this is one of the only ways to earn money without documentation. Muhammed works with an organization that helps immigrants and refugees find work and housing. He also hosts a radio show to get a wider message about immigration issues out to the community in Berlin.

A central part of the walk was though Gorlitzer Park, which was once part of the border between East and West. Nowadays it is becoming a community hangout with basketball hoops, a soccer camp, and an amphitheater. It is also a space where undocumented immigrants and refugees may work in the drug trade. Muhammed explained that each of the several entrances to the park are the meeting locations for people from different countries. The groups may come into conflict at times, but there is also recognition that each person is likely facing the same challenges as one from another group. For instance, the police raid the park and place blame for certain events on immigrants. Oftentimes this blame is unwarranted and is instead an excuse to harass those that are already dealing with tough circumstances. Muhammed spoke of himself being the target of police as a black person. Over the years, however, he has learned how to diffuse situations and stand up for others. 

A central thought going through my head as I listed to Muhammed's stories was of course of my own privilege, but also an amazement of Muhammed's positivity, faith in community, and desire to make life easier for those who travelled to Germany after him. Muhammed has been living in Germany for over 10 years. He has legal employment, a flat, and will become a permanent resident and citizen within the next two years. Immigrants are routinely castigated for society's ills and more acceptance and recognition of their bravery in leaving their home countries for a better life is necessary. This is true in the U.S. as well as in Europe which, unfortunately, treats immigrants from the Middle East and Africa differently than those from countries such as Ukraine. 

Thank you to Muhammed for providing us with insight and context into his life and the issues many immigrants and refugees face upon arrival!

More from Kreuzberg: excellent people watching over a couple beers and some really tasty udon noodles from a happening Vietnamese restaurant.

Today we took a short train out to the University of Potsdam, part of which is housed in the New Palace of Sanssouci buildings, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Established in 1991, the university was formed by combining several universities under a new name. It is a stunning campus, as one would expect, with buildings from the 1700s. The reason for our visit was to learn about the Refugee Teachers Program, which was founded in 2016. One of the professors, Diana Gonzalez Olivio spoke to us about the goals and mission behind the program. 

The Refugee Teachers Program came in response to waves of asylum speakers moving to Europe. The university realized there were teachers amongst the refugees and sought to find ways to integrate these teachers into the German education system. The goal of the program is to provide teachers with linguistic, pedagogical, and professional training so they may join the teaching profession in Germany within 18 months of beginning the program. While the program has had success and 105 degrees confirmed, Professor Olivio explained that refugee students face particular challenges. First, the refugee teachers are non-traditional students at the university. They are older on average and often have family commitments. Second, they have had to endure longer interruptions on their professional path. As we know, it can take years to gain status in Germany and other countries in the EU. There are many obstacles to overcome in simply arriving in Germany. Third, the teachers often are unable to fulfill the two subject requirement to teach in Germany. Therefore, the desired outcome of the program is to place refugee teachers as classroom assistants before they secure all the requirements to teach on their own. Finally, although the refugees may have been highly regarded teachers in their home countries, they are now in the role of the learner. This can be a tough contextual switch for them to make. They have to adapt to the German system, but also deal with the academic credit recognition process which can be long and frustrating. 

Professor Olivio explained it can take up to six years for a refugee teacher to complete the program. With such an extensive process, many students drop out, unfortunately. The university realizes these obstacles are difficult to overcome and are now evaluating their program and seeking ways to clarify requirements by working with the state of Brandenburg to expedite the process as much as possible. 

This program is impressive for its foresight and desire to integrate refugee teachers into the German system. The university saw there was a group of people with skills that could benefit learners in the country. Various research states school-aged students need to see themselves in their teachers and curriculum. Allowing refugees to teach in Germany will help refugee students feel more comfortable and prosper in the classroom. Having teachers of different backgrounds will also hopefully further open the minds of German-born students as they experience ideas from other countries. I am struck by the positive view of refugees by Germany. In this case they are treating refugees with an asset-based mindset and are working (albeit slowly) to incorporate newcomers into their society. This is a refreshing change from the news cycle in the U.S. which castigates immigrants and refugees. 

More from Potsdam: Lunch in the university cafeteria (delicious and only 6 euro!), and a walk to Sansoucci, through the stunning gardens.

A note of the courage of the German people: When Americans think of Germany, the Nazi Party is often at the top of mind. The Third Reich is one of the only things American students learn about the country. In Chicago, students are required to study the Holocaust once in middle school and once in high school. There is little emphasis on how Germans literally rebuilt their country brick by brick, the reunification of Germany after the Cold War, or the strength of the U.S./German partnerships in economics, trade, or security. However, in my mind, the German people are courageous. Walking through Berlin, and other cities I've visited in the past, one sees monuments and reminders of the country's prior sins. Berlin has memorialized the Holocaust, and has separate memorials for atrocities against Jews, the Sinti and Roma, and homosexual people. There is a memorial where books were burned, and sections of the Berlin Wall still stand to remind people of the separation that existed. Cities across Germany have also laid "stumbling stones" in front of houses where Jewish residents lived before they were sent to concentration camps. This emphasis on putting their history on display for all to see is important. The German people have a real desire to own their past so that all citizens understand exactly what took place and to educate them so they can stand against oppression. I thought a lot about this as I walked around the city the past few days, and today as I visited the East Side Gallery. This is a section of the Berlin Wall, covered in murals, that still stands today. Many of the murals are political in nature and illustrate what the German people were thinking in the months after the wall fell. In classic German thinking, the murals are maintained so future generations can come to understand the political and social unrest then. This is in stark contrast to many U.S. politicians who want to sweep our disdainful past (or currently, the January 6th investigation) under the rug. While Germany is not perfect, and still has a lot of work to do around inclusion and equity, the country realizes that being honest about their past is necessary in moving forward.

More from Berlin: Another night in Kreuzberg at an extremely hip biergarten, tucked in along the Spree.

Today is our last day in Germany with scheduled events. The day began with a moderated conversation led by Cathleen Fisher, the Executive Director of Fulbright Germany. The Fulbright Program in Germany is in its 70th year and awards some 700 grants per year in its mission to enhance understandings of differences. Ms. Fisher noted Germany is a great partner with the Fulbright program especially as the country continually questions how it can learn from and overcome its past. Under her leadership, Fulbright Germany has an emphasis on tackling issues related to inclusivity and accessibility in social life. The two speakers touched on these ideas.

First, a school principal (unfortunately I did not catch his name) spoke of his upbringing in Potsdam, East Germany. His family was well integrated into the U.S.S.R. with his father working for the government and his brother serving in the East German Secret Service. His grandfather was also a member of the Nazi Party, so he felt he had a lot to unpack as he became an adult. Upon the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, his world evaporated in one day. He explained coming to realize all that he had been told as a child was "false," even though he was only becoming a teenager then. This led him to a desire to study history during university, where he was awarded a Fulbright grant to study at UCONN. During his education he came to understand that "historic truth is an interpretation of facts, not a collection of facts." He came to view differing points of view and developed an educational philosophy with these ideas: 1. Value freedom of speech; 2. Expression of opinion is a sign of trust; 3. The first two ideals must be followed by all during a discussion; 4. All students should share their ideas to get a complete interpretation; and 5. It is essential that students substantiate their point of view. Differing opinions with evidence also have value. He feels that by following these ideals, students can learn to negotiate discussions on their own. 

Interestingly, the principal also told a story of why he was not in favor of raising the Ukrainian flag at this school when students asked. He views nationalistic symbols as problematic due to his lived experience and family history. He also thought raising a flag for Ukraine, but not for the Syrian students sent a message about what kind of people are valued. In the end, he agreed to hold a vote, in which the students did prevail. The students however, did write an explanation as to why the flag is on display, so there is the flag, and their interpretation of the event for anyone to read. This, I thought, was a great example of being flexible and asking students to think hard about their intentions and the perception of those intentions.

Our second speaker, Dr. Denton, was an American college professor turned high school teacher at a comprehensive school in Berlin. He was also a Fulbright recipient in college. He opened his remarks by explaining that being a high school teacher was a great thing because teaching college was about him, whereas teaching high school was about the students. He spoke on six main topics. First, it is difficult to talk about the present without the historical context. Students need this context to have a useful and deep understanding of nuanced issues. Second, there are no right or wrong answers. Students need to be comfortable not knowing. Here Dr. Denton brought up F. Scott Fitzgerald's idea that "the test of a first-rate intelligence is the ability to hold two opposing ideas in mind at the same time and still retain the ability to function." Third, sometimes teachers need to accentuate the positive so students do not become despondent in the face of all society's challenges. The Civil Rights movement, while incomplete, should be a hopeful message for students, for example. The fourth point Dr. Denton made was simply that reading is transformative and students need to read books. Fifth, not all concepts translate across time, place, or language. For instance, many in Europe find the identity politics in the U.S. to be ridiculous and racist. The final point bringing these ideas together is that students need projects that allow them to explore differences, grow, and become bigger, more encompassing thinkers. Teachers should allow students to start big and see where things go. After all, there will be plenty of people that will try to cut down what students find motivating. (I'll touch more on this idea in the Guiding Question section).

Overall, the conversation between these two educators was insightful and a great summary of how the Fulbright program works across borders.

Our final session at Atlantic-Brucke this afternoon summarized a lot of what we learned throughout this trip: Germany has worked hard to establish a strong democracy. For the past 70 years Atlantic-Brucke has worked to maintain and strengthen the U.S./German relationship. Both members of the organization and Isaac Martin from the U.S. Embassy spoke of the importance of open dialogue to promote the interests of both countries and the promotion of democracy around the world. Both organizations have educational components that seek to promote social mobility, limit authoritarian powers, and promote dialogue between groups of people. Interestingly, the U.S. Department of State champions this idea by having an internal dissent channel where diplomats can securely voice their disagreement with policy. There is even a "dissenter of the year" award we were told. Clearly, honoring other voices, was a theme of today's sessions.

More from Berlin: a final dinner outside at Hugo und Notte, on a beautiful patio under the Gendarmenmarkt, and drinks across from the Pergamon to cap off an extraordinary experience.

As I get ready to leave Germany I have many thoughts going through my head. Germany, and its educational system is not perfect. However, it was amazing to learn about education here and discuss the many successful practices German teachers and administrators use to reach students and push them academically. We can experiment with and implement many of these practices in the United States. These four areas of thought resonated with me, specifically:

• There is a high value on education by German society. This was seen time and time again, and was especially clear by the way the German ministries worked to integrate refugee teachers and students into their classrooms. The multiple pathways for high school students also ensures student interest and future desires are a component of their education. The goal of creating "productive citizens" is being undertaken by making education free and open to all. Students learn of the value of democracy and engage in difficult and thought provoking concepts on a regular basis. Sexual health, immigration, and historical sins are studied, discussed, and not shied away from. School funding in Germany is not tied to property taxes. There are obvious opportunities for the U.S. government to adequately fund education.

• Cultural exchanges where students learn in other countries are seen as beneficial. This increases the idea of a European identity and is a pathway to future employment or university admission.  There is an opportunity in the U.S. for exchanges between states or even for students to travel to areas hit hard by natural disasters to help and learn. This might be one way people in the United States come to understand one another, as people in different states seem more divided than ever. U.S. school systems should study the exchange programs between European countries as they have a compelling upside for students and their society as a whole.

• Vocational education in Germany is high-powered and has clear goals and direction. This is vastly different from American vocational education in high school. The U.S. Department of Education has an opportunity to work with U.S. corporations to develop a vocational system that will help students who want to work become ready to contribute to the American economy upon leaving high school. Existing vocational programs in the U.S. can be scaled to help this process. Traditional educators and school districts will also have to change the "college only" mindset.

• German students and teachers have a lot of flexibility. Teachers trust students and administrators trust teachers to behave a professionals. Once teachers have their degrees, there are few observations, and an overbearing evaluation system does not exist. Teachers and administrators can and should consider how they can work more positively together in service of students. Although there should be more continuing professional development for German teachers, U.S. teachers can consider what we ask students to do and give them more freedom to drive the learning. Oral assessments of knowledge may be one pathway as students can prove their knowledge, while becoming improved speakers and listeners. 

To close this out, taking part in the Fulbright Teachers for Global Classrooms Program has been an absolutely incredible experience. I feel honored to have worked alongside such talented educators from the U.S. and Germany. No doubt this experience has opened my mind to wider educational possibilities, made me consider new thoughts and theories, and has made me assess a lot of my own notions regarding the education of young people. I will be a better and more well-rounded educator and thinker from the exposure to these ideas and all the conversations with my colleagues during this time in Europe. Thank you to Fulbright TGC and our partners in Germany and the European Union!